The fashion house has presented the results of the work done on the quarantine, through a video published on the website of the French Federation of Haute couture and pret-a-porter. Genre diversity was small — they were mostly mini-movies with story, clips or stories about the team work on the collection. It seems that the main for many brands was the fact of how memorable and viral the video, while fashion seemed to be moved on the second plan. Those who chose the format of a video presentation with the story of the collection, was able to demonstrate that it’s not just clothes in which the models go down the runway, and work of a large team of designers, engineers, and now even IT professionals and artificial intelligence.If last year someone had a doubt whether we are waiting for the digitalization, whether the XXI century — digital age, the current reality proves that the transition has already happened, whether you like it or not. Sounded in recent years, the main criticisms to the fashion Weeks were as follows: the format is hopelessly outdated, impressions, cost, environmental harm, and even some of them so boring that the meaning of such events is lost. The eccentric personalities of the level of McQueen or Galliano and not the people, and the days of the huge budgets are gone. And here we are forced to witness the first ever digital fashion Week — whether justified expectations of the advocates of progress? Has opened an online week with a passionate appeal 50-year-old model Naomi Campbell, who quoted South African leader Nelson Mandela that “action without purpose is a waste of time, as a goal without action has no meaning, and when there is a goal and method of achieving it — that it can change the world.” It was, of course, about the movement Black Lives Matter, through which to the world has conveyed a loud message about the urgent need for change and restoration of justice. According to Naomi, they should apply not only to the world as a whole, but also of the fashion industry, where the quality of working conditions and diversity should be the focus for many years. Campbell never hid the fact that in the first years of her career on the catwalk, where she was the only black supermodel, she had to repeatedly face racial prejudice. Calendar shows, at first glance, was like any other season, with the difference that the collection was shown via video. The basic rule — the length of any video is not supposed to exceed 20 minutes. The results turned out mixed. It was either mini-movies with a plot, or outright clips (as Iris van Herpen, where the main role was the Red woman from “Game of thrones”, Maurizio Galante or Azzaro), or stories about team work on the collection (this presentation was all the more interesting). To unfortunately, most brands embraced digital a week more like an emergency measure than a good opportunity to speak, so of the revelations with rare exception did not happen. The dominant mood in fashion industry — the confusion, the preview clips confirms it. “Kommersant Style” tells of the most memorable presentations in the framework of the Week of high fashion.Rethinking locality and crafts: Ulyana Sergeenko CoutureО Krestetsky line unfairly know a few — mostly those who are interested in crafts scientific, folklorists and historians of fashion. Since the same ad on cooperation Ulyana Sergeenko and revived spouses Georgiawiki factory “Kresttsy line” (early 2019) this term was flickering in the information field more often. To the fans of the ancient art of stitch-embroidery hand-embroidered with more than 150 years of history are Elena Volatile, Vic Shelegova, Ekaterina Odintsova, Tatiana Rogachenko (which is often in their workshops from the series “Art de vivre” at the table decor uses tablecloths and napkins with sewing).Master “Krestetsky line” was already done for Ulyana Sergeenko Couture embroidery for products from the summer collection 2019. Then was developed the author’s drawings which formed the basis of different decorative elements. In the autumn-winter collections presented online as part of Paris fashion Week, the scale of cooperation increased. In is divided into three chapters mini-movie every participant in the creative process has been recognized. In addition Crestcom showed the work of lace-makers of Vologda and behind the scenes in Moscow. If foreign home periodically released videos showing the mystery of working in white coats in the Studio, on the Russian masters owning ancient techniques, drew attention, perhaps for the first time. And he did it without false patriotism, with respect for history, notes of melancholy and elegance. The collection made up of dresses and suits with a hard, chiseled silhouette. Although she Sergeenko video gives a historically proven life hack, “if the thing sat on me, then she will sit on anyone” to wear these things, must strictly follow the figure. Tight waist, tight skirt, simplicity, behind which lies a diverse combination of techniques, the beauty of the cold, confident and even cocky. The sharp shoulders give the model a serious and businesslike, despite the lace rosettes on the hem. Black-and-white palette dominates the collection, reminiscent of the rationing of the war, when clothes were mostly plain. The fabulous world of Dior Haute Couture, and the lack of it diversityDior decided to make a fancy mini-movie “Le Mythe Dior” in the spirit of pre-Raphaelite paintings, entrusting shooting Matteo Garrone, the Italian regisser, specializing in the creation of surreal worlds. Suffice it to recall his “Scary tales” with their fantastic landscapes and characters. The plot of the messengers of the trunk, the design of which repeats the facade of the flagship of the Paris Dior boutique on Avenue Montaigne, traveling in a mysterious world inhabited by mermaids, nymphs, snails and dryads. Inside the chest is a miniature mannequins dressed in outfits from the new collection. The good news: this mobile theatre Thtre de la Mode will show not only the mythical inhabitants of the forests and rivers, but also the real customers — sets of 37 images will be sent around the world for a future order. “I’m attracted to mystery and magic. They help to get rid of uncertainty in the future,” says Maria Grazia chiuri, describing his collection of Haute Couture autumn-winter of 2020-2021. Commercial create a viral video, its otherworldly charm will attract viewers and will be an event in the digital world — a very good move. However, among foreign critics, there were those who in the mainstream of the time was surprised at the lack of diversity in casting. As for the outfits, the beauty of the nymphs they are, unfortunately, not added.Circumnavigation of the virtual model at the Ralph & RussoКреативный Director and co-founder of the brand Tamara Ralph spoke in detail about working on the collection, showing the range of tools used in a modern fashion house. And one of the most impressive virtual model Hauli (in the language Swahili, it means strength and power). Is the fruit of the work of programmers from South Korea. Digital printing floral prints were also used new technology. In addition, because of the pandemic, COVID-19 was forced to close the Studio, and staff to stay home, so to develop and create a collection of staff Ralph & Russo had to learn to work on “udalenke”. According to the designer, the collection is a reflection of a reflection of the unattainable because of the quarantine the beauty of our world and the digital future. Hence the avatar photo shoot Hauli, dressed in couture gowns, on the background of the tourist attractions (ruins of Petra, the Taj Mahal, the Great wall of China, etc.). If we discard the achievements of artificial intelligence and look at the actual collection, the lush gown of tulle and bows on the backside not too similar to a deep rethinking of reality.ChanelНа new collection creative Director of Chanel Virginie VIAR was inspired by Karl Lagerfeld, while she thought “about punk princesses, whom he loved to accompany at parties or in Le Palace”. Modest by the standards of the Chanel video (1 minute 22 seconds) we see the models dancing awkwardly in dresses made of taffeta, with a rollicking hair, feathers and lots of decorations, obviously friend Carland was very rarefied and eccentric women. In a collection influenced 80s rock and romanticism. “For me haute couture is romantic in its very essence, explained VIAR.— In each of these silhouettes so much love”. Viktor & Rolf and the main things this year, such as masks, robes and nightgown emojis unlike most of his colleagues, Viktor & Rolf tried to reflect the current mood in the world with their usual ironic tone. They presented a collection of Change in three blocks, each with three images (nightgown, robe, and a coat). In the video the VoiceOver (the singer Mika) talks about new products, while the models display in a room at the Waldorf Astoria in Amsterdam. The garments were developed in order to illustrate the various States that emerged in the pandemic of coronavirus. The first unit embodies sadness and anger; the designers used dark blue range, and the satin nightgown has embroidered rain clouds of lace. Hit this block oversized coat, faux-leather with pointed spikes — “impressive and makes you feel safe”, in case someone wants to reduce social distancing, and you are not ready. The second block reflects the contradictory emotions that they experienced during a pandemic. Pink nightgown “in Emoji” reflects the whole range of emotions — from fear to bliss. Social network sometimes compromise our psychological stability, reasonably warn designers. Bathrobe in this part of the collection is made of soft plush fabric with bows down the left sleeve. Floor-length coat candy colors, with exaggerated sleeves make the owner “is not available and attractive at the same time”. The third block is devoted to love. Here nightgown is made of white satin, embroidered with red, black and white lace hearts. Robe of quilted satin is designed to “make the Royal power.” A coat symbolizes the variety (diversity) of love that “we all deserve, regardless of age, colour, sex, race, religion or orientation.” With such a “safe” wardrobe to meet his love will succeed and in the midst of the Apocalypse. Elena Krawczun
