On the left bank of the Douro River, in Vila Nova de Gaia, Taylor’s is one of the oldest port houses. The company is celebrating its 331st anniversary this year. However, recently, it no longer produces only wine. She has facilities to make her own tonic. Because if port sales are down, demand in bars is on the rise. And the cocktail that brings this fortified wine to life is the “port and tonic.”
This mixture of white port, tonic, lime and ice resembles gin and tonic. But its taste is different: it is less strong in alcohol and softer on the palate.
“Port brings a lot of complexity to the cocktail,” observes Taylor’s sales director João Rebelo. It’s our way of reaching the younger generation, because we are seen as an alcohol for old people. »
Taylor’s is not the only port house to make this observation. Sogrape, producer and owner of several brands including that of Offley, has just marketed its “portotonic” in a very popular format in Quebec: the can.
“This is our way of reversing the decline in port wine,” says Teresa Araujo of Sogrape.
This ready-to-drink is made with a white port created to measure for cocktails. The Clink vintage contains less residual sugar, 60 grams per liter rather than 100 on average, and its aromas are expressed more on fresh fruit, rather than on the classic notes of candied fruit. In several European countries, it is possible to buy Clink in a bottle and mix it with tonic at home.
The Symington family has also created new ports to integrate this new market. Graham’s Blend No5 is produced with grapes harvested at night, to bring more freshness to the drink. If the difference is tasted, it is also seen: the label is very colorful and the shape of the bottle is reminiscent of gin.
“We worked on the look,” explains Symington’s Canadian market manager, Sérgio Azevedo. It has to catch the eye. It is a challenge, because the Douro and Porto Wine Institute applies very strict rules. »
Port has not yet taken over the cocktail menu of every bar in the province. However, in the cozy atmosphere of the jjacques cocktail bar in Quebec, mixologist Frédéric Pouliot revisits forgotten alcohols. Its current menu unsurprisingly contains an offering based on this fortified wine.
Frédéric Pouliot prepares a Porto Flip, a gourmet cocktail that is served as dessert. He also suggests serving the alcohol as an aperitif in a martini by simply replacing the vermouth with port. The fortified wine also fits into the popular Aperol Spritz, swapping the bitter liqueur for red port.
Producer and importer Emmanuel Cabral also observes this trend. For several years now, he has been encouraging people to prepare their sangria with port. According to him, this festive drink undoubtedly contributes to the renewed interest in fortified wine in Quebec.
“When you think that the majority of ports are aged for several years in oak barrels, it is not an expensive product for the quality,” he maintains.
A bottle of white port costs $20 on average, half the price of gin.
