Now gaining momentum, the trend in care cosmetics for purity and transparency. Everyone wants to know what’s in the composition, which components, not the mysterious names of proprietary complexes, and not everyone wants to see some “demolizione” components such as mineral oil, parabens and silicones. We asked cosmetologists and experts, what ingredients should not be in beauty tools.
“Everything is poison and everything is medicine: it is determined by the dose”, said the famous physician Paracelsus. His views have survived to the present day and is reflected in the principles of modern pharmacology. The dose of active substance may be insufficient, then the desired effect is not achieved. The dose may be excessive, and then there are side effects — but it is not what we need. The dose should be, as they say, quantum satis — such that when it reaches the maximum desired effect with no side effects.
There is a list of prohibited products that cannot be used by the technical regulations of the Customs Union. Their one major brand will not add to the composition of funds, because at stake is reputation. Therefore, all that we see on the label of products for care of skin were officially allowed to use.
Cosmetic brand Kiehl’s originated in new York pharmacy in 1851 and from its inception was guided by the principles of pharmacology to create the most effective and safe formula. Knowledge of creating pharmaceutical formulas we carry on today. We understand that the same component can be of benefit or not to benefit: it depends on its concentration and ratio with other components says a leading expert brands Aleksey Mironenko.
According to him, it is therefore often does not make sense to read the ingredients list, looking for them “harmful”. The skin acts not a single component in isolation, and the formula consisting of several components. The same ingredient is isolated may act not as part of the formula.
Glycerol
Some surprised by his presence in the moisturizing formula, explaining that glycerin can pull moisture from the skin. Really, glycerin in a concentration of more than 30% is able to pull moisture from the skin. However, if it acts in a complex with other components of the formula that provides optimal hydration. It is important that the ratio of the components of each formula was adjusted with a chemist’s precision.
also Important is the quality of raw materials and technology for the active component. In the case of the same glycerin production may be involved chlorine. Technologically difficult to remove chlorine completely, and at the same time, it can be irritant to toexpe. However, there are technologies for production of glycerol without the use of chlorine. This glycerin is safe to use even on sensitive skin.
it is better to give Priority to the companies that buy and produce high-quality raw materials, conduct a thorough cleaning of the components and closely examine the safety of its products before production.
Mineral oil
Mineral oil (petrolatum, liquidum paraffinum, and vaseline) is petroleum products. Form on the skin of the microfilm, which does not allow it to breathe but creates a visual effect of a nice smooth surface. By the way, these components consensus in the scientific community is still there. If the degree of purification of these products get rid of harmful impurity and does not harm health.
the Fact is the dosage in the percentage of the input component in the composition. The same mineral oil in the composition is introduced to solve certain problems: when the skin is damaged and needs to create a partial occlusion to retain moisture, strengthen the skin protection — the expert in care Lancome Valeriya Khokhlova.
This is a component that not everyone needs on a regular basis, but at a certain skin condition and its use is permitted.
Silicones
based on silicones (e.g. Dimethicone) — silica, an inert, neutral substance is odourless, when added to a recipe works against fungi and bacteria, and the texture of the tools is more easy and smooth.
But of course, if the product consists entirely of such components, and the minimum present assets — vitamins, antioxidants, plant extracts and so on, and humidifiers (hyaluronate, glycerin), you may want to choose a richer structure which will meet the needs of your skin right now says the expert.
Alcohol
Many people are afraid of the alcohol in the composition, but in vain. After all, it is a sanitizer. The alcohol stabilizes the formula helps it to survive longer, and enhances the penetration of other components of the formula, however, can itself irritate the skin, especially sensitive. There are so called “fatty” alcohol that is derived from natural fats and oils. They do not harm the skin and help to moisturize and nourish it.
However, long-term use of funds with dry alcohol (ethanol, methanol, denatured alcohol and ethyl alcohol) will make the skin dry and flaky, because it literally eats away the surface of the skin.
Some beauticians advise people with oily skin to add to the care tonics containing alcohol, as it allegedly prevents the formation of pimples. However, most experts believe that it is a bad idea. Moreover, the skin may appear stagnant red spots and acne.
Aromitigatory
of Course, many like the shower gel smells like a tropical oasis reminiscent of coconut or candy. However, the fragrance means is considered a trade secret. This means that companies really do not need to disclose what ingredients constitute the very fragrance composition. Often it consists of hundreds of chemicals that can cause allergies, dermatitis, itching, dry skin or a rash.
it Often happens that the manufacturers add artificial flavors to mask unpleasant odors because of the mixture of different ingredients. Although it sounds innocuous, most of them are chemicals and can have toxic effects on the body.
This is a chemicals, derived from petroleum or coal, which cause skin irritation. Flavors can also be dangerous for people with breathing disorders, can cause headache and skin reaction.
Sulfates
the Sulfates in shampoos can cause irritation and itching, especially in the case of dry and sensitive scalp.
Free
Parabens are synthetic chemicals used as preservatives in various products, including cosmetics and food. This whole family of chemicals, the names of which are usually so difficult to pronounce (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and ethylparaben).
It is the preservatives used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of germs and ensure the safety of funds when using it. Parabens are also contained in foods such as honey and Royal jelly.
even Though scientific studies have shown that short-chain parabens (methyl and ethyl parabens) are safe, we recognize that there is a growing demand from our buyers for funds that do not contain parabens. For this reason, the company Kiehl’s has made the decision to eliminate parabens from their products. Suitable processing composition has been completed, and new tools can be found on the shelves in all countries — said the expert brand.
According to the Scientific Committee of the European Commission on consumer products, parabens such as propylparaben and butylparaben and their counterparts, isopropyl and isobutylparaben, can disrupt functions of the endocrine system and affect reproductive function.
sodium Lauryl sulfate
the Latin abbreviation SLS refers to sodium lauryl sulfate (sodium lauryl sulfate) — a surfactant (saw). It has been proven that SLS at a concentration of more than 2 per cent (they are contained in shampoos, shower gels, tonal means, cleansing foams for the face, liquids for mouth rinses and toothpastes) contributes to skin irritation, ulcers, violation of the natural balance of the skin and even can cause eye damage. Also, it is widely believed that sodium lauryl sulfate is the main cause of acne (especially cystic acne) around my mouth and chin. In toothpaste it is used for the formation of persistent foam and, as a consequence, more effective purification.
There is a special type of sodium lauryl sulfate is a COSMOS and allowed for use in organic cosmetics. The fact that it is derived not from oil but from coconut or palm oil, making it a natural, well-studied organic component.
to Say that this component is 100% taboo, I wouldn’t, but it definitely should be avoided for people with sensitive skin and allergic to it. If it is possible to avoid such means is best to do, but also to bring against him not necessarily,
— said Alla Akperov, the founder of the networking Brow & Beauty Bar “Muscovite” and “Muscovite Nails”.
Triclosan and triclocarban
Triclosan (it is often found in toothpastes, deodorants and antibacterial Soaps) began to actively add to the beauty of money in the 1990s. it has Been proven that triclosan (in liquid products) and triclocarban (in Soaps) can cause hormonal disorders, dysfunction of the immune system and allergies. Continued use of products with triclosan leads to the fact that the body stops responding to antibiotics, and it can be deadly. Instead, use a natural antibacterial and antiseptic such as tea tree oil.
Aminophenol, diaminophenol, phenylendiamine (coal tar)
According to the National toxicology program and International Agency for research on cancer United States, coal tar (a byproduct of coal processing) is a known human carcinogen. Stylists are exposed to this chemical when hair coloring daily. In Europe it is forbidden to use coal tar in hair dyes. Although the FDA (Management on sanitary inspection behind quality of foodstuff and medicines of the USA) authorizes the use of coal tar in topical products such as shampoos for dandruff and remedy for psoriasis, the safety of these products in the long term has not been proven.
Polyethylene (PEG)
These tiny plastic beads in facial scrubs or lip made of polyethylene (used because they are softer than natural exfoliant like walnut shells, for example). These synthetic chemicals often contain 1,4-dioxane, which is considered a carcinogen and penetrates easily into the skin.
Polyethylene irritating, and in any case can not be usedisolate on damaged skin. Plastic beads in scrubs and means to cleanse the body is also not filtered by our sewage systems, which means that they eventually clog up the reservoirs.
petroleum Distillates
Distillate oil (found in mascara) — products multi-stage separation of oil into fractions — can cause contact dermatitis and often contain ingredients that trigger cancer. They are produced in oil refineries at the same time with the car fuel, fuel oil and chemical feedstock.
Oxybenzone
This organic compound is one of the most dangerous chemicals in sunscreens. It acts like estrogen in the body, alters sperm production in men and stimulates the endometriosis in women. Studies conducted on laboratory animals indicate that oxybenzone and its metabolites may disrupt the hormone system. This component also causes the Allergy.
it is Better to choose a safe sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium oxide. It’s chemical and mineral ingredients.
Phthalates
As explained Alla Akperov, the founder of the networking Brow & Beauty Bar “Muscovite” and “Muscovite Nails”, this is a very common component that may be hiding behind the word “fragrance”. Phthalates are also retained in the aromas, holding the pigment, making the material more plastic. Alas, they are all around us, and even if you choose products labelled “no phthalates”, contact with them can not be avoided. In the correct dosage is non-toxic phthalates are not aggressive, so their use is permitted. However, they accumulate in the body, damaging the endocrine system, and can become catalysts of various diseases.
Use
It is the product of the synthesis of ammonia and ethylene. The cosmetic composition may be referred to as Sterolamide, Alkanolamine 244, Trihydroxytriethylamine, Nitrilotriethanol and Daltogen. Used as a preservative. In moderate doses, in General is safe, but high concentration can cause severe allergies, skin reactions, disturbance of the functions of the skin.
dibutyl phthalate, toluene and formaldehyde
These chemicals, known as the “toxic trio”, causing birth defects, endocrine disorders, headaches and breathing problems. Often these symptoms occur in nail salon workers and those who often nail Polish colors. That’s why researchers recommend pregnant women to avoid funds with dibutyl phthalate, toluene and formaldehyde. Non-toxic nail Polish Zoya and OPI release.
Separately, I want to say about the formaldehyde. Pure formaldehyde is a colorless gas. It is in itself cannot be used as a cosmetic ingredient and usually requires added��of the water, which converts it into formaldehyde. Formaldehyde acts as an antibacterial preservative: reduces the growth of bacteria in the product. The minimum quantity of formaldehyde is harmless, but excess of permissible concentrations may cause irritation of the skin.
unfortunately, to describe all the unwanted ingredients one at a time is almost impossible: a lot of them. There are those that in industrial production are used on a regular basis and information about them a lot, but there are some very rare positions which are known only to experts. Moreover, many harmful substances “disguised” under different names. Experts advise to always carefully read the compositions of funds and the responses to them. In the network there are sites where you can quickly check on specific ingredients and products in General.