(Paris) If sobriety is the watchword of Parisian Fashion Week, a few attitudes and details disturb this celebration of decorum which ends on Tuesday.
Well cut and in classic colors (beige, gray, navy blue or black), it symbolizes a new elegance, often in a suit with skirt, pants or Bermuda shorts.
It is elongated and rather straight in a masculine style at Dior, oversized with double breasted or long in duchess satin evoking opera coats at Givenchy.
Victor Weinsanto gives his jacket a hood, Dries Van Noten makes it in denim, either shrunken or with exaggerated volumes. Peter Do plays with proportions with his cropped or two-tone jacket.
Black with large gold buttons, it’s retro from Balmain, evoking “pretty Madame” from the 1940s.
Balenciaga makes the tailoring of the suit jacket an obsessive idea in its show, while warning: “It’s not the jacket you wear that matters, but the life you lead wearing it.”
Even the Japanese brand Issey Miyake is getting in on the act, in its desire to structure the wind in a garment: its pantsuit is a voluminous set with oversized triangular shoulders, in light, stretchy fabric, in black, pink or electric blue.
Printed, embroidered, sculpted flowers: Balmain wowed in its colorful and exuberant collection, which the team managed to piece together ten days after the unprecedented theft of 50 pieces intended for the show.
More discreetly at Givenchy, flowers appear in embroidery, hand-painted patterns, prints, and even jewelry.
The mille-fleurs pattern, characteristic of Dior, transforms into a contrasting floral x-ray in white and black.
Long floral dresses contrast with black ensembles at Balenciaga.
Down with skirts and pants, let’s walk around in panties! Miu Miu recommended it in winter, celebrities like Hailey Bieber or Kendall Jenner are experimenting with it in real life and the Parisian catwalks are making it their own.
A black bodysuit playing with transparency is a look all its own at Dior.
The teaser photo for Chanel, which will present its collection on the last day of Fashion Week on Tuesday, is model Rianne Van Rompaey in a one-piece swimsuit in the garden of the Villa Noailles, a masterpiece of modernist architecture in Hyères, in the south of France.
Victoria Beckham’s classical dancers step out in bodysuits under a slightly longer cardigan. At Dries Van Noten, outfits that look like swimsuits are hidden under long coats.
At Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, it’s a reflection: is it “the pareo (which) integrates with the swimsuit, or the swimsuit which transforms into clothing”?
Previously a fashion faux pas, now a style element: sandals or heels are worn over socks.
At Givenchy, tone-on-tone or colored knee-length stockings are worn over pumps, with formal suits and evening dresses.
Victoria Beckham combines heels and dancer’s leggings.
“I like this “I don’t care” look,” Dries Van Noten told AFP, whose pumps with exaggerated points and curved heels are worn with socks. “Now is not the time to be sad and serious.”
The parades indeed exude a good dose of irony and self-deprecation.
Rick Owens organized his monster ball around the Tokyo Palace fountain, with neon pink and yellow smoke on one side and rose petals on the other. Like zombies, their faces veiled by a sort of beekeeper’s mask and their shoulders pulled upwards, the models moved to the sound of I still believe in love.
Low profile after the controversy over an advertisement sexualizing children, Balenciaga stylist Demna has rediscovered a sense of spectacle and humor, making a mockery of his promise to focus on clothing. Intrusive explanations of the process of making a jacket accompanied by dramatic music served as the backdrop to the show, on a square red catwalk lined with matching velvet curtains.
“Let’s go to the beach! » Grey, formal and structured looks, accessorized with huge bags, opened Marie Adam-Leenaerdt’s show, after a sung invitation to go to the beach.
