A journey through time ? The origins of aspic date back to the Middle Ages – it was called so because of its gel-like appearance, the texture of which is somewhat reminiscent of snake skin. Cooks of the time had discovered that a thickened meat broth could be transformed into jelly, the galantines and other roast fats of our grandmothers being made from meat stock.
“It was forgotten over time,” explains Michel Lambert, author of the five volumes of The History of Quebec Family Cuisine. People who left the countryside to populate the cities left at a young age without having acquired the know-how of their parents. They lost their traditions. »
The resurgence of aspic in Quebec in the mid-20th century was therefore the result of an advertising campaign by the Kraft company, which sought to raise awareness of its Jell-O powder jelly. “In the 1950s and 1960s, the American company decided to broadcast recipes on TV,” Mr. Lambert tells us. It therefore became commonplace through the small screen, even though it could be bought in Quebec as early as the 1930s.”
Over time, aspic recipes have multiplied, some taking root in many regions of the province. “I met lots of people everywhere and I noted all the kinds of aspics that we made,” Michel Lambert tells us. The most popular was the tomato one, with neutral gelatin, celery leaves and green olives – it was served with turkey during the holiday season. Another very popular variety was made with chopped coleslaw, carrots and celery, sometimes apples, mixed with lemon Jell-O. »
Other aspic recipes found include carrot salad and orange jelly or grated beets and raspberry jelly – this recipe was particularly popular in Gaspésie. Still others added chopped ham, pieces of chicken and chicken noodle soup, or even salmon and cucumber, etc. !
“Until the 1990s, people created other varieties,” says Mr. Lambert, who was a chef in Saguenay in the 1980s before becoming a literature professor. I am now 80 years old and have experienced several culinary eras. We arrived at a point where we found all the period recipes very kitsch. In particular, there was a break that came with the era of flower power, where we turned, for example, to Asian cultures. But today I see young people in their twenties and thirties who find it sad that we have lost our traditions, and they want to find them again. I have the impression that we will soon return to our culinary roots. »
A Bloody Ceasar aspic as an aperitif for your holiday meal? Why not !
“Aspic recipes are like spaghetti sauces, there are all kinds,” explains 52-year-old restaurateur Jean-François Girard. We thought we would create one that could be served with a shot of vodka. Like a Bloody Caesar, but really deconstructed. It’s not a great discovery in terms of taste, but it works and for time travel, I found it important. And it remains spectacular in presentation, it’s very playful as a dish. »
“We wanted to recall the 1950s, the time when things were grooving on the Plaza Saint-Hubert,” tells us the restaurateur, who has been based on Montreal’s famous commercial artery since 2022. And we found the aspic very funny, we wanted to have it on the menu. »
For Montreal in Lights last year, Jean-François Girard and his team wore period clothes unearthed from theater troupes, we even pushed the immersion into table service – Mr. Girard is entertained by shining customers’ shoes! As for the aspic, offered as an aperitif, we prepared it with Clamato juice, red peppers and celery, and topped with a green olive.
