Very popular with American and British visitors, just south of Martinique, the island of Saint Lucia offers abundant nature that offers astonishing journeys and gastronomic adventures. Whether we climb one of its rocky peaks, fill up on seafood or relax on one of its beaches, there will always be something waiting for us around the corner.
Today English-speaking, Saint Lucia has preserved traces of its French-speaking past in its toponymy and Creole. The duo of peaks emerging in the south of the island, near the town of Soufrière, is a convincing example: Gros Piton and Petit Piton. If the ascent of the little brother is complex, the more imposing of the two remains accessible, with the obligatory escort of a guide (approximately $75). It will be Barney, a resident who is also a reggae singer and proud Rastafarian. The climb, rather gentle at first, quickly becomes steeper as it passes through a very rugged path and through a lush tropical forest. The opportunity for our guide to explain how crucial the pitons are in the culture of the island. “It emanates an incredible energy, particularly between the two peaks, where Sugar Beach is located,” he explains, between two Creole songs sung during the ascent.
From the summit, the views are striking over green mountains and valleys, while Barney attracts birds on his arms. The hike, which lasts three to four hours, is relatively demanding without being insurmountable. For serious athletes, a major challenge will soon be inaugurated: “We are going to offer a Three Crowns circuit which will consist of climbing Gros Piton, Petit Piton and Mont Gimie, the highest point of the island,” explains Rondel Charlery, spokesperson. from the national tourist office.
A breathless climb is not necessarily to everyone’s taste, but there are more relaxed ways to immerse yourself in the lush vegetation of the island and collect splendid views. One of them is the Tet Paul trail, a walk of around an hour following local botanical features, dissected by an accompanying guide who knows his subject perfectly ($15). Mahalia thus presents us with a host of plants, such as the “beautiful croton”, nicknamed “bird waterer”, the latter collecting the water accumulated in the leaves, or the Moringa tree, also called “tree of life” because of its resistance. The guide also tells us that a pineapple can take up to a year to ripen! After a flight of stairs, a mound offers a breathtaking view of the twin peaks. At the end of the route, you can also discover a reconstructed house from yesteryear.
A second interesting botanical option, the Diamond Falls Gardens, is a six-acre concentration of nature, with a history dating back to 1713. Originally a natural baths complex, the site has been transformed into a fascinating plant maze filled with exotic plants. , birds and insects form a true haven of peace and a paradise for photographers.
There is no question of disembarking in Saint Lucia without taking the plunge. There are of course very beautiful beaches there, such as Sugar Beach, Anse Manin or Petite Malgretoute, some of which offer interesting snorkeling options. Many coastal hotels also provide access to stretches of sand.
But there are also more original ways to jump into the water in the heart of the island. One of them is to go to Sulfur Springs, a geothermal area where the volcanic pulse beats at ground level. We first approach open-air solfataras and bubbling hot mud, before heading towards the natural hot water pools (the temperature reaches over 40 degrees) for a relaxing swim, punctuated by a splash of mud volcanic. Adults and children happily relax there, in the blackish opacity of the waters. Very popular, the place is stormed by waves of visitors, and waiting for a lull will allow you to fully enjoy swimming.
After the hot, the cold. Head to the Toraille waterfall, a beautiful 15-meter waterfall nestled in a developed cove. You can cool off in the pool below and, for the bravest, stand under the waterfall – shoulder massage as a bonus. The temperature may be slightly chilly, but the Edenic setting takes away the goosebumps.
A cross between nature and culture, located on the northern tip of the island, Pigeon Island National Park is no longer so aptly named. “It used to be an island, but it was attached to the main territory with the construction of a road in the 1970s,” Rondel Charlery tells us. There are the remains of military installations from the 18th century, such as barracks, cannons, and Fort Rodney. Indeed, the location was strategic in the context of the Franco-British rivalry, particularly because it made it possible to monitor the horizon overlooking Martinique. The Saint Lucians will not fail to tell you that their island has passed from the hands of the French to those of the English, and vice versa, dozens of times.
Armed with an explanatory brochure, we flit from one ruin to another, where the stones reveal the place’s rich past. The site has been developed so that short hiking trails can be followed, some of which go to the summit of the massif, where Fort Rodney is located. From there, a beautiful view rewards those who are willing to experience the steepness of the slopes, with a nice view of the junction between the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. We can also see long beaches below, which we hurry to reach (the site even has its own reserved beach).
Still in the north of Saint Lucia, another way to discover the rainforest is to board one of the pods of the cable car operated by Rainforest Adventures. At reduced speed, we first sink into the vegetation of the Castries reserve, then we gain height to admire the extent of the green lung. No matter how hard you squint, apart from a few birds, there’s not much movement in there. “Don’t expect to see lots of animals,” warns our guide Jean-Claude, “but there are plenty of plants and trees to discover. » Indeed, the young man is inexhaustible about the local flora, which he knows like the back of his hand, pointing out, for example, a strangler fig tree in the process of invading its prey. Back on land, a guided trail walk is offered, a real mine of plant curiosities. Jean-Claude makes us dizzy with the names, but we will remember that of the fruit nicknamed “Don’t touch me”, causing skin rashes. Finally, a network of zip lines has been installed on site for fans of higher speed descents.
Such lush vegetation translates logically onto the plate. Saint Lucia offers a real gastronomic palette, with Caribbean accents, with lots of fish, spices, chocolate and local drinks.
No need to play ostrich: Saint Lucia is not a destination for all budgets. It is still possible to find accommodation at a lower cost by searching on Airbnb, but the island is best known for its range of hotel complexes with impeccable services and heavenly settings. For anyone wishing to treat themselves to a dream vacation, let us mention the Stonefield Villa Resort, with its range of idyllic cottages, private swimming pools and views of the peaks as a bonus, accompanied by an excellent restaurant, the Mango Tree, where many organic ingredients are grown on the property.
To the north, Calabash Cove Resort is not to be outdone with rooms, suites and villas with porches or balconies overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Here too, the Windsong restaurant proves to be of excellent quality, with its breathtaking panoramic terrace. The dream comes at a price: at these establishments, the nightly rate starts at $500.
