Texas barbecue is more than just food; it’s a reflection of history and community. In a small town like Giddings, the story of Orange Holloway, a forgotten pitmaster, sheds light on the rich tradition of barbecue in Texas. Daniel Vaughn, the barbecue editor at Texas Monthly, delves into the narrative of Orange Holloway and his impact on the community.
Orange Holloway played a crucial role in shaping the career of Tootsie Tomanetz, one of Texas’ most famous pitmasters. Before Tootsie rose to fame at Snow’s BBQ, she was a novice in Giddings, unsure of how to cook barbecue or make sausage. It was Orange Holloway, an experienced pitmaster at City Meat Market, who mentored her and taught her the art of barbecue.
To learn more about Orange Holloway, Daniel Vaughn visited Giddings and met with his children. Through their stories, he uncovered a time when Giddings was a segregated town, with separate entrances for Black customers at the City Meat Market. Despite the challenges of segregation, Orange Holloway’s barbecue was so renowned that people would travel from neighboring towns to taste his sausage.
One poignant story from Orange Holloway’s life involved a tragic incident where his prized hunting dogs were shot by a disgruntled farmer. The ensuing court case, argued by a local lawyer, marked a significant moment where a jury awarded damages to a Black man against a white man—a rare occurrence in that era.
Orange Holloway’s legacy lives on through the flavors of his sausage, which Tootsie Tomanetz still remembers fondly. While she has a recipe that closely resembles his sausage, the essence of his cooking style—unmeasured spices and intuitive cooking—remains a cherished memory.
Daniel Vaughn’s exploration of Orange Holloway’s story highlights the importance of honoring the unsung heroes of Texas barbecue history. By delving into the past, we gain a deeper appreciation for the roots of barbecue culture and the individuals who shaped it. As we savor the smoky flavors of Texas barbecue, let us also remember the pitmasters like Orange Holloway, whose passion for barbecue brought communities together.
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