Patricia Sharpe, a renowned food critic who has been dedicated to exploring the culinary landscape of Texas for the past five decades, is preparing to retire after almost 50 years on the job. Starting as an editorial assistant at Texas Monthly in 1974, she has traveled across the state, sampling and documenting the various flavors Texas has to offer.
In a recent interview with Texas Standard, Sharpe reflected on her career and the evolution of food culture in the Lone Star State. She mentioned that the extensive traveling required for her job became exhausting, especially during the pandemic, which gave her a new perspective on stepping down and allowing someone else to take the reins.
Throughout her career, Sharpe has discovered and enjoyed many memorable meals, one of which was at the groundbreaking Routh Street Cafe in Dallas, where she experienced innovative Southwestern cuisine introduced by chef Stephan Pyles in the ’80s. She emphasized how the dining experience in Texas has shifted from upscale, quiet settings with traditional courses to a more modern, bar-like atmosphere with small and large plates replacing the traditional appetizers and entrees.
When asked about the changes in the food being served, Sharpe noted a significant increase in diversity and experimentation, attributing this shift to factors like immigration, creativity, and the influence of celebrity chefs. She also shared her thoughts on the Michelin Texas Guide, acknowledging its accurate recognition of many establishments while pointing out some glaring omissions that could be rectified in the future.
As a generalist food critic at Texas Monthly, Sharpe covered a range of cuisines, particularly focusing on fine and moderate dining. She welcomed the addition of specialized editors for barbecue and tacos, allowing her to pass on those responsibilities to experts in the field. When asked about the best city for tacos in Texas, Sharpe gave credit to San Antonio for its contribution to the breakfast taco, despite acknowledging Austin’s excellent offerings.
Sharpe also highlighted the Perini Ranch Steakhouse near Abilene as a must-visit restaurant outside the big cities, praising its long-standing reputation for serving exceptional steaks in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Looking ahead, she predicted that the future of food culture in Texas would continue to blend fine dining with everyday cuisine, promoting diversity and culinary innovation.
For regular Texans looking to enjoy a great dining experience, Sharpe suggested sticking to what you like while also being open to trying new things. Consulting resources like the Texas Monthly dining guide can help navigate the vast culinary landscape of Texas and discover hidden gems throughout the state.
As Patricia Sharpe prepares to pass the torch to the next generation of food critics, her insights and experiences will undoubtedly leave a lasting impact on the Texas culinary scene for years to come.
