“The most important thing is really balance,” David Giroux responds straight away when asked what makes a good apple pie. According to the chef who has always had a keen interest in pastry, the dough should be neither too hard nor too soft and its presence should not take over the filling which should not be too sweet.
The type of dough is important, David Giroux believes. “The mistake people make is using shortcrust pastry. […] It’s the kind of dough that, I find, has no taste. In apple pie, there are two main components: the dough and the apples. You have to make sure that these elements are really, really good. I prefer sweet dough. »
The chef suggests a 100% butter dough with almond powder or a little vanilla inside. “Of course it’s a little more complex to work with, because it’s more crumbly,” concedes the man who was a pastry chef in France at the Äponem restaurant, decorated with a Michelin star. Do you have any advice to make it easier? “It’s really the kind of dough that needs to be worked cold,” he replies. If it becomes too hot when lowered, do not hesitate to put it back in the refrigerator for a bit. What if despite everything it cracks? “It’s not uncommon that even me, when I make pies, I have to patch holes with small pieces,” he confides, in complete transparency. According to him, the taste is well worth the challenge.
Cortland, Spartan, Gala, McIntosh, Lobo, Paulared, Empire… On the Quebec apple producers website, we list nearly twenty local varieties. Which one to choose for making pies? The answer depends on the desired consistency and desired taste, David Giroux believes. Some people will like their fruit to be almost completely melted, while others will prefer the filling to have more texture, argues the chef.
The best thing, he says, is to “try apple varieties to see which one suits you best, whether in terms of acidity, sugar or texture.” To guide your research, you can consult the Quebec apple producers website.
Cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves are the classic spices found in our grandmothers’ apple pie recipes, but why limit yourself to them? “Star anise works well too. Cardamom is a spice that could also be interesting. »
According to David Giroux, black cardamom, with its slightly smoky notes, is surprising. Additionally, you can have fun by changing the white sugar for one of our “beautiful substitutes from Quebec like birch syrup, maple syrup or honey.”
Any final advice? Let your creativity flow and have fun, says David Giroux. “There are so many possible variations. With a top, no top. I’ve seen it before with a little cream sugar mixture inside. […] We could add pears, walnuts,” he lists. Personally, the chef likes to take inspiration from French pastry chef Cédric Grolet, who arranges apples in the shape of a rose on top of the dessert. “It’s a beautiful, very visual pie! »
Among David Giroux’s favorite apple pie recipes, we find that of the École hôtelière des Laurentides, where he did his training. As a young student, he and his cohort had to bake many pies for the school store. He remembers that he was not the most productive of the group. “I ate so much!” Honestly, it didn’t make any sense,” he admits with a laugh. Here is this irresistible recipe, which he has slightly modified.
Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Yield: 6 to 8 servings
