(Kingston) Sunday noon in downtown Kingston. Under the blazing sun, a young guide puts on a show for a group of tourists. His visit focuses on the “instagrammable” mural works that have recently sprung up in the neighborhood. We take photos, while she screams into her microphone to cover the sound system which is playing loudly a little further away.
Even 10 years ago, this scene simply wouldn’t have been possible. The heart of the Jamaican capital had the reputation of being a risky area and few tourists dared to venture there.
This is still the case, to a certain extent.
Downtown Kingston’s crime rate remains higher than the Caribbean average. The urban landscape is strongly decrepit and poverty is still very visible in this southern part of the city, which adjoins the seaside.
But the trend is reversing.
Since 2003, the municipality has stepped up actions to slow the decline of the neighborhood, by attracting investors and financing “redevelopment” projects. A salutary political decision, after years of laissez-faire, during which the New Kingston district, located further north, established itself as the new business center.
With its thematic tours focused on culture, Kingston Creative is one of the cogs in this revitalization. The non-profit organization, founded in 2017, proposes a new approach for the rebirth of the city center, stimulating tourism, community life, business partnerships and local art – hence these outdoor mural works. heart of the neighborhood.
Its dynamism allowed the capital to win the award for “best creative destination in the world” in 2023.
Further in the area, streets have been repaved and structures renovated. Buildings were constructed to accommodate new businesses. Restaurants have sprung up. A coastal sidewalk, 4 m wide, now links the beach and the offices of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Trade which has just moved to Rue Port Royal, by the sea.
A sign of the times: the Hilton chain has moved into the imposing Rok, a 12-story hotel that clearly calls for the return of tourists to the neighborhood.
“Obviously it’s best not to walk around here with gold chains around your neck. Like any big city, you have to have a bit of common sense,” says Christopher Wright, director of business development for the Jamaica Tourism Council in Miami.
“But I can tell you that the government has put a lot of effort into revitalizing this area. »
This philosophy does not come without potential collateral damage.
Some are already worried about the gentrification of the neighborhood. On the X network, a local journalist recently urged Kingston residents to acquire property in the area, before they become overpriced. If the trend continues, “renoviction” could become an issue.
All the more dangerous as downtown Kingston is teeming with real built heritage, witness to the colonial era and the island’s buccaneering past. In Church Street, the former warehouse of a rum distillery was also for sale during our visit. Will he still be there next time?
We’re not there yet. But the transition has clearly begun. And some travel agencies did not wait for the end of the process to promote the district.
This is the case of Tash Johnson, met by pure chance during our guided tour. Owner of a “destination management company” located in Tampa, USA, this daughter of a famous reggaeman (Black Scorpio) already offers tours of the neighborhood to her clients.
“Is this a tough destination to sell? We have to focus on the positive, she concludes. Downtown Kingston is not the fanciest area, but it is also the heart of the city. It has its own beauty and has an undeniable historical heritage. It’s important, you know. Our culture is not just about beaches…”
Founded in 1825, this tavern is the oldest drinking establishment in Kingston. The establishment was first called Shakespeare Tavern, perhaps due to its immediate neighbor: the historic Ward Theater (under renovation). The place is picturesque, and even more so with its backyard, where you can bet on horse races.
They talk about music, history, culture. They are quite recent and give the neighborhood the splash of color it was missing. Kingston Creative offers a guided tour of downtown Kingston’s murals, as well as a reggae bus tour and a food tour.
Founded in 1974, the National Gallery of Jamaica is the largest and oldest museum in the English-speaking Caribbean. It has an interesting collection of classic, modern and contemporary Jamaican art: John Pringle, A. D. Scott, Aaaron and Marjorie Matalon…
We tend to forget it, but downtown Kingston faces the sea. You can stroll along the water’s edge, observing the fishermen and lovers who come to seek a little peace and quiet far from the noise of the cars. A bubble steeped in history, since Port Royal (former name of Kingston) was also a crossroads for pirates of the 17th century, Henry Morgan and Blackbeard in the lead.
It’s hotter, but what a sight! The Kingston market is a whirlwind of colors, of sellers, of clothes, of fruit, of criers and barkers, of dealers and ganja pushers, with the added bonus of open-air churches, where Jeezusss is heckled in droves. lungs. The heart of the heart of the city. A must-have. Walk slowly and watch your wallet.
