My petticoat sticks out: I’m a proud resident of Rosemont. Looking for a place to go with the family on a weeknight close to home, I remembered the existence of Elsdale, a nice place where I had already sat down for brunch and lunch, but never evening. A look online at the menu and I was convinced: seasonal dishes, showcasing local products and artisans, with inventiveness and delicacy. Promising!
In September, Le Esldale celebrates six years of existence. There is no doubt that the place which initially had a coffee vocation and which has since asserted its refreshment side has established itself in the habits of the people of the neighborhood, and beyond, preceded by its good reputation. Originally, the project was led by Marie-Sarah Gaudet, Joël Selech and Isabelle Thérien. Chef Jean-Christophe Amadei, who was first a customer and then an employee, joined them just over a year ago. The quartet is perfectly complemented by Marie-Sarah, pastry chef, Joël, who takes care of the front service, and Isabelle (accounting). They are supported in their work by Gaëlle Gauthier-Lapointe, sommelier, and Maxime Lelièvre, room manager, who is also behind the beautiful cocktail menu.
A beautiful Tuesday summer evening in Rosemont. People are lounging in Molson Park, from which rise notes from the public piano played by a particularly gifted passer-by. At Elsdale, the cute terrace is full; no worries, we will be the only customers (not for long) inside, enjoying a table overlooking the large open window and the noise of rue Beaubien.
The first page of the menu lists all the local products and producers on the plates and the cooking philosophy: local resources, vegetable-based cuisine, producers who share the same eco-responsible vision. The Elsdale is not the only one to do this, but here is a good practice that sheds light on those who are too often in the shadows.
The menu is short, but nevertheless teeming with great ideas. We are in the heart of summer and the freshness is at the rendezvous. What to choose between the radish, strawberries and turnips salad, the mozzarella di buffala with dried tomatoes and roasted peppers, the risotto with morels? All the bounty of the land here is on the menu, and it makes your mouth water!
Our family of three opts for sharing several small dishes. As son has an unconditional love for the octopus, it is part of our selection. Prepared in the Portuguese way “a lagareiro”, its cooking is finalized in garlic oil with baby potatoes and Kalamata olives. ” It’s excellent ! exclaims my little foodie.
Adults fall back on the lion’s manes of the urban farm The 400 feet of mushrooms, prepared katsu style, a Japanese recipe for fried chicken, here in a veggie version. The mushrooms, tender but still firm under their panko breadcrumbs, are delicious, even more so with their Vietnamese banh mi sauce. A small salad of carrots and marinated onions adds color and vitamins to the dish.
The fish accras are a little pasty in the mouth. Their device could be lighter and their taste is rather bland. We’re much more interested in the grilled lettuce salad with its “martini” vinaigrette – a fresh composition well balanced with its green olives, fried capers and Louis d’Or Quebec cheese which bring a salty side – and the spare ribs of BBQ pork, prepared in Korean style, whose meat, cooked to perfection and coated with its delicious sauce, comes off, juicy, from the bones.
The wonder continues with dessert. Both the chocolate and haskap tartlet, very creamy, sprinkled with roasted hazelnuts, as well as the blackcurrant pavlova, where the entire fruit is highlighted and transformed (sorbet, syrup, blackcurrant cream and a green oil made with the leaves), win the favors of the table. Elsdale, see you again!
A few well-turned cocktails make their way onto the menu. Alongside the creations of the moment, some classics are also on offer. I liked the “Smash-moi ta saison” thirst quencher, made with fresh strawberries and a syrup, with haskap liqueur and vodka. Several microbrewery beers are in the game. On the wine side, the selection is very inspiring; several Quebec vineyards are located there (we even saw, a rarity, a cuvée from the Le Raku farm, in Kamouraska), in good company with well-chosen private import wines, mostly from estates that work biodynamically.
During our visit, the small dishes were available between $14 and $25; desserts are just over $10 and cocktails are around $13. There’s wine by the glass from $10 and bottles start at around $40.
The menu changes according to arrivals and seasons and there are always great vegetarian options. Brunch is served on weekends and, during the week, a daytime menu is offered until 3 p.m. The establishment is easily accessible to people with reduced mobility. The Elsdale does not take reservations, except for groups of 6 to 12 people (evenings only, from 5 p.m.).
